![[image]](http://www.neiconi.com/antigua/bumper-01.jpg)
![[image]](http://www.neiconi.com/antigua/bumper-02.jpg)
I may have just been lucky, but I carried a Schwinn Bicycle for 2 on the bumper of 2 different trailers for 11 years and never experienced bumper failure. The below photo of is from our first travel trailer. Our second trailer was a Keystone Springdale. I don't have any good photos of the carrier on it.
We only carried the one bicycle, and the carrier itself weighs about 50 pounds. It's not light at all. So all together, we had a good 100 pounds hanging on the bumper. But we never experience any failure at all.
Do I recommend it to you? No! Only so I won't be sued for giving you bad advise if I said "Yes" and your's ended up being the one in a million that failed.
My current camper (Keystone Outback) came with a factory installed hitch, from the frame which included the bumper too. I removed the spare tire holder and use it to carry my 3 wheeled tricycle now!
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/8dwTlbS.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/JjZj06m.jpg)
Current trailer (but it has the factory hitch, but I still use the actual bumper as support for part of this contraption.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/jchL0Gm.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/AbAPcys.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/vi9R18p.jpg)
Winnebago 2101DS TT & 2022 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ Z71, WindyNation 300 watt solar-Lossigy 200 AH Lithium battery. Prefer boondocking, USFS, COE, BLM, NPS, TVA, state camps. Bicyclist. 14 yr. Army -11B40 then 11A - (MOS 1542 & 1560) IOBC & IOAC grad
Here's what I use now, I like the style where the bike hangs from the arms. I'm pretty sure any welding shop would be able to come up with a way to mount it to your bumper: Curt Bike Rack
Jim@HiTek
Have shop, will travel!
Visit my travel & RV repair blog site. Subscribe for emailed updates.
Winnebago Journey, '02
Cat 330HP Diesel, 36.5', two slides.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
I may talk to a welder friend and see if we can add some reinforcement just in case.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C
![[image]](http://www.flatsurface.com/camper/bumper/bumper%20failure.jpg)
![[image]](https://d28lcup14p4e72.cloudfront.net/140659/3420644/IMG_2655sm.jpg)
mike-s wrote:
LOL, those same pictures get posted any time someone mentions bike racks and bumpers here, and at every other forum on the net. The fact is plenty of people haul bikes on trailer bumpers without issue. Sure, some RV manufacturers do a less than stellar job of bumper mounting and you can have an issue with anything, but hundreds of thousands of people attach bike racks to RV bumpers using some common sense and evaluation of how the bumper is mounted. Most owners never give it a second thought nor do they ever visit one of these online rags.
I've hauled a 2'X6' steel platform, using a bolt on Curt receiver bracket, on 3 different trailers. One I felt needed additional reinforcement at the attachment points, the other two I clamped on the receiver bracket and forgot about it. I also do not haul bikes on that platform but two RTIC 65 coolers that weigh 37 lbs each empty, and hold 70 lbs of ice.
People on these forums never cease to amaze me as soon as bumpers are mentioned, and the vast majority who comment and post those same pictures have never attached a bike rack or anything else to an RV bumper.
I recommend a hitch receiver tube in the center, but it needs to extend under the trailer and connect to the rest of the frame so that it has less "twist" on the bumper.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
LOL, those same pictures get posted any time someone mentions bike racks and bumpers here, and at every other forum on the net. The fact is plenty of people haul bikes on trailer bumpers without issue. Sure, some RV manufacturers do a less than stellar job of bumper mounting and you can have an issue with anything,
You're laughing at other people's misfortune? You're an ass.LOL, those same pictures get posted any time someone mentions bike racks and bumpers here, and at every other forum on the net. The fact is plenty of people haul bikes on trailer bumpers without issue. Sure, some RV manufacturers do a less than stellar job of bumper mounting and you can have an issue with anything,
Lots of people get away with lots of dangerous/unsafe practices, until they don't.
Neither of the photos show any issue with bumper mounting or manufacturing. It's clear that the welds held and the thin wall bumper metal was simply torn away due to the load. It can be done, but requires more than just a bolt on receiver - something other than the bumper needs to take the torsion.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
People on these forums never cease to amaze me as soon as bumpers are mentioned, and the vast majority who comment and post those same pictures have never attached a bike rack or anything else to an RV bumper.
People on these forums never cease to amaze me as soon as bumpers are mentioned, and the vast majority who comment and post those same pictures have never attached a bike rack or anything else to an RV bumper.
Possibly because they're smarter than you think.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/tongue.gif "tongue")
mike-s wrote:
Looks like the lever action of the two bikes was too much for the welds when the driver hit a dip in the road. I would have mounted at least one of the bikes behind the tire just to avoid that levering action of the bikes weight. Or beefed up the bumpers connection to the frame. Maybe with some steel plates to broaden the surface area that connects the steel.
I have a frame mounted cargo rack on our camper and wouldn’t trust that thin walled tube to carry much of anything that put torsional stress on it.
Kip
2015 Skyline Dart 214RB
2018 Silverado Double Cab 4x4
Andersen Hitch
IMO I wouldn't add anything, how do you know that the frame will hold!
The only good solution is to have a hitch fabricated that welds directly to the frame rails. It only cost us $250 and was solid. We did have a hole drilled through the bottom of the receiver and a nut welded over it so we could thread a bolt through to tighten against the bike rack and take the slack out of the hitch.
'17 Ram 2500 Crewcab Laramie CTD
'13 Keystone Bullet Premier 310BHPR
Hitched by Hensley
Out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
Wife Kim
Son Brandon 17yrs
Daughter Marissa 16yrs
Dog Bailey
12 Forest River Georgetown 350TS Hellwig sway bars, BlueOx TrueCenter stabilizer
13 Ford Explorer Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000, VIP Tow>
A bad day camping is
better than a good day at work!
dodge guy wrote:
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
Taking the "slop"/bounce out pf the system is the key !
theoldwizard1 wrote:
Taking the "slop"/bounce out pf the system is the key !
dodge guy wrote:
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
Taking the "slop"/bounce out pf the system is the key !
Yeah, but drilling all the way through a RV wall and installing eye bolts through the walls is a pretty darn rednecky way to go about trying to keep the bikes from ripping the bumper off..
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
There ARE much better ways to go about this.
You CAN buy a specially designed rack that goes on your trailer tongue, looks better and no need to add extra potential water leaks to your trailer (these things leak easily enough without adding extra points to leak).
If you don't want to spend the money on a A frame bike rack, there are adapters you can buy that mount to the tongue A frame that allows you to use a standard hitch bike rack on the trailer tongue.
Stromberg Carlson..
![[image]](https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71elwDag7FL._SL1500_.jpg)
Neither option is cheap but, both options are the better way to go than trying to dangle junk off the back of your trailer, best of all, the bikes ARE in full view of your rearview mirror, no more guessing if you still have the bikes or if they decided to take a scenic ride without you.
And for the record, I HAVE delt with nearly losing my bikes from a bumper mount bike rack. I was lucky to notice the bumper ripping away from the welds while traveling.. What a pain it was to figure out how to carry those bikes the rest of the way home..
Do yourself and other motorists a favor, in spite of all those who claim it will never happen to them or you, please, DO NOT DO IT!
It is not worth taking the chance, it is not worth the hassle, it is not worth potentially causing an accident or worst of all injuring or killing others.
Listen to the voice of experience.
mike-s wrote:
Lots of people get away with lots of dangerous/unsafe practices, until they don't.
Neither of the photos show any issue with bumper mounting or manufacturing. It's clear that the welds held and the thin wall bumper metal was simply torn away due to the load. It can be done, but requires more than just a bolt on receiver - something other than the bumper needs to take the torsion.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
LOL, those same pictures get posted any time someone mentions bike racks and bumpers here, and at every other forum on the net. The fact is plenty of people haul bikes on trailer bumpers without issue. Sure, some RV manufacturers do a less than stellar job of bumper mounting and you can have an issue with anything,
You're laughing at other people's misfortune? You're an ass.LOL, those same pictures get posted any time someone mentions bike racks and bumpers here, and at every other forum on the net. The fact is plenty of people haul bikes on trailer bumpers without issue. Sure, some RV manufacturers do a less than stellar job of bumper mounting and you can have an issue with anything,
Lots of people get away with lots of dangerous/unsafe practices, until they don't.
Neither of the photos show any issue with bumper mounting or manufacturing. It's clear that the welds held and the thin wall bumper metal was simply torn away due to the load. It can be done, but requires more than just a bolt on receiver - something other than the bumper needs to take the torsion.
Thank you......
Not laughing at others misfortune but laughing at your post of pictures pulled from the net in an attempt to prove your point, that get put up in almost every one of these threads here and elsewhere, the same exact pictures, ROFLMAO.
What do you suppose the two additional pieces of tube and two pieces of 3" round that are attached to the bumper in the first picture are there for? Do you think that maybe someone had something attached to that bumper just slightly heavier than a couple of mountain bikes?
And in the second picture, which appears to be a lightweight retro style trailer, have you noticed the 14 gauge 4x4 bumper was simply butt welded to the frame extension? I would certainly think that would be the result in that scenario. A couple of gussets could of been added to that setup that would of held all day long with a bike rack.
The fact is they are all attached differently and you need to make the evaluation yourself. That requires a little knowledge, some experience with fabrication and welding, and a little common sense which a lot of people who respond to these bumper threads have none of. These threads that end up with blanket statements that it can not be done are hilarious. The bumper police, a sub division of the weight police.
But thank you, I'll wear my I'm an ass badge proudly while I am strapping down my 200 lbs of coolers to my cargo platform, which is attached to my bumper.
camp-n-family wrote:
From experience I would never recommend it. ... We bought one of those bolt on hitches and away we went. There was a lot of play in the receiver and the bikes bounced around a lot. In short time I noticed a couple of cracks in the welds between the bumper and frame. I had a welder beef things up with some brackets and gussets. Before long they too were cracking and the steel bumper was tearing.
...
From experience I would never recommend it. ... We bought one of those bolt on hitches and away we went. There was a lot of play in the receiver and the bikes bounced around a lot. In short time I noticed a couple of cracks in the welds between the bumper and frame. I had a welder beef things up with some brackets and gussets. Before long they too were cracking and the steel bumper was tearing.
...
I think one reason why I was successful on 2 different travel trailers was because I made sure there was no wiggle from the bicycles. I bungied everything very tight from both wheels downward and it had no wiggle. That was my very first observation when sliding in my bicycle carrier into the bumper mounted receiver. So I made sure the bicycles could not wiggle.
The same is true with that cargo carrier I carry on my current camper. The carrier had so much wiggle, almost a foot up on down on both ends, I could see that literally ripping out the factory installed hitch over time. So I added some extra creativity to prevent the carrier from rocking back and forth. Actually, there is absolutely no rocking. But in the event of excessive stress for some reason, I used 2x4 supports that rest on the top of the bumper to keep the thing from rocking. In 5 years, the factory install receiver has worked with no problems at all. The factory installed hitch did have a weight rating and my wooden contraption for the tricycle, plus the weight of the cargo carrier, plus the weight of the tricycle, still does not come close to exceeding the recommended weight limit on the posted sticker on the bumper.
Maybe that's the secret to some that are successful and why some are failures? Keep the bicycle carrier from rocking back and forth. It's like taking a metal wire and bending it back and forth. Do it enough and it will break. Never bend it, and the tensel strength can be quite amazing.
I still do not recommend using a bicycle carrier on the bumper of an RV though ... unless the bumper has been reinforced, either factory or after market, even though I had no issues with my first 2 trailers. (and absolutely none with my 3rd).
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver.
I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless.
Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.
Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.
mike-s wrote:
Those aren't even the same camper in the two pictures. Is it your bumper? Is it your failure? If not stop posting this BS.
IAMICHABOD wrote:
One of the things that have been mentioned is the rocking and the damage it can do when the bike carrier or cargo carrier is mounted in a RECEIVER .
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver.
I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless.
Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.
Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.
One of the things that have been mentioned is the rocking and the damage it can do when the bike carrier or cargo carrier is mounted in a RECEIVER .
You need a good anti rattle device so you don't get so much play in the receiver.
I have tried almost every Anti Rattle device on the market, most have been no good or so complicated and cumbersome that they are useless. Including the Roadmaster type,totally useless.
Until I found the one at Hitch Rider.
Their Hitch Vice is the best and easiest one I have come across and it really works.
Nice, think I'll get that for my front hitch bike carrier, see if it removes some of the bounce when on rougher roads.
2019 Dutchman Kodiak 293RLSL
2015 GMC 1500 Sierra 4x4 5.3 3.42 full bed
Equalizer 10k WDH
dodge guy wrote:
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop
Out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
I carry 4 bikes on the back of my trailer. However I took all the slop
Out of the hitch and carrier. And I have ratchet straps tht cross cross to the back wall of the trailer. The eye bolts go through the wall studs and the horizontal bunk studs. Been doing it this way since 07 with no issues. I also made sure to keep tongue weight in check. If you don’t do anything other than just put the bikes in the rear then you will have problems like this in the photos.
I did the same thing ..quick and easy and for 5 years ,never had a wiggle on the rack .Eyebolts are easy to installwith proper sealant ..they go into the meat of the corner. Have had many compliments...
2013 Sunset Trail 25RB TT
2015 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 6.0 l gasser.
Equilizer 4 pt
From Belle River, Ontario
2003 Mountain Star 890sbrx Truck Camper
dodge guy wrote:
I wouldnt say its rednecky, rather well thought out. Like I stated its been on the trailer for 10 years no issues. And I have a rear view camera that lets me watch the bikes as well as the road. You can't just drill through the walls without knowing where things are. I do things once. The right way!
I wouldnt say its rednecky, rather well thought out. Like I stated its been on the trailer for 10 years no issues. And I have a rear view camera that lets me watch the bikes as well as the road. You can't just drill through the walls without knowing where things are. I do things once. The right way!
Hmm.. OK, don't like "rednecky", then perhaps
![[image]](http://www.sherv.net/cm/emoticons/halloween/frankenstein.gif)
Frankensteinish?
Honestly, if I was in the used RV market and saw a trailer with big bolts sticking out of the walls that were never supposed to be there and were never part of the factory build I would be RUNNING as fast as I could away from that trailer.
While I applaud your creativity in trying to find a solution, I don't think it is one for everyone. Requires really finding a "stud" in that wall that is wide enough to accommodate the diameter of said bolt.. RV walls are made with 1x2s and actual size is 3/4 x 1 1/2 IF you are lucky..
That means a 1/4" inch bolt would give you only 1/4" on each side IF you were able to 100% accurately hit that stud in the direct middle AND the stud was straight and plumb AND you also drill it square and plumb..
A long shot at best..
Then you would have to use additional bracing on the inside of the wall like a small steel plate or a huge washer to spread out some of the force.. Failure to do that will result in snapping the wall stud like a twig when you hit a hard bump in the road or tighten the straps too tight (I HAVE hit bumps hard enough to RIP the bathroom mirror right off the wall in the rear of my trailer).
Personally, unless you are well versed with RV structures and or an structural engineer, folks REALLY should consider the non DIY approach rather than your DIY Eye bolt approach and buy the tongue mounted rack or hitch adapter..
It WILL be money well worth spent and you will not harm your trailer or other motorists!
Would I recommend it? Not without looking at the bumper first.
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP
drsteve wrote:
I bought a new Jayco in 2003, and had the dealer install a bike rack on the rear bumper. I hauled 4 bikes on it for years, all over the place, on all sorts of roads. Never had an issue. No spare tire though, just the bikes.
Would I recommend it? Not without looking at the bumper first.
I bought a new Jayco in 2003, and had the dealer install a bike rack on the rear bumper. I hauled 4 bikes on it for years, all over the place, on all sorts of roads. Never had an issue. No spare tire though, just the bikes.
Would I recommend it? Not without looking at the bumper first.
Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't..
Sort of like the movie line.. "Do you feel lucky?"
In reality, some RVs are manufactured with HEAVY DUTY square tubing for a bumper (1/8" wall)..
The heavy duty square tubing will most likely survive bike racks but I wouldn't consider it since I feel very lucky that I found mine coming apart before the bikes hit the ground.
MOST however are manufactured with LIGHT WEIGHT SHEET METAL which is 14 ga and is HALF the wall thickness or about 1/16". The sheet metal just rips away from the welds since the weld and frame is stronger than 14 ga steel.
Just remember though, as the owner/driver of the vehicle, in all states YOU are ultimately responsible for ANY lost items that may fall onto the road. IF you are caught, it WILL be written up for an "unsecured" or "improperly secured load" and FINES will be assessed.
My BIL used to drive truck (CDL), lost one piece of 4x4 cribbing onto the road. He saw the 4x4 hit the road, by the time he was able to turn around and backtrack the police was already there writing up a ticket.. Another driver had gotten his license plate and reported it..
Cost him nearly $1600 in fines, court costs, travel costs plus had to take a unpaid day to got to the Magistrate..
Even though you are not working as a trucker, YOU ARE NOT EXEMPT FROM THE RULES..
Gdetrailer wrote:
Hmm.. OK, don't like "rednecky", then perhaps
Frankensteinish?
Honestly, if I was in the used RV market and saw a trailer with big bolts sticking out of the walls that were never supposed to be there and were never part of the factory build I would be RUNNING as fast as I could away from that trailer.
While I applaud your creativity in trying to find a solution, I don't think it is one for everyone. Requires really finding a "stud" in that wall that is wide enough to accommodate the diameter of said bolt.. RV walls are made with 1x2s and actual size is 3/4 x 1 1/2 IF you are lucky..
That means a 1/4" inch bolt would give you only 1/4" on each side IF you were able to 100% accurately hit that stud in the direct middle AND the stud was straight and plumb AND you also drill it square and plumb..
A long shot at best..
Then you would have to use additional bracing on the inside of the wall like a small steel plate or a huge washer to spread out some of the force.. Failure to do that will result in snapping the wall stud like a twig when you hit a hard bump in the road or tighten the straps too tight (I HAVE hit bumps hard enough to RIP the bathroom mirror right off the wall in the rear of my trailer).
Personally, unless you are well versed with RV structures and or an structural engineer, folks REALLY should consider the non DIY approach rather than your DIY Eye bolt approach and buy the tongue mounted rack or hitch adapter..
It WILL be money well worth spent and you will not harm your trailer or other motorists!
dodge guy wrote:
I wouldnt say its rednecky, rather well thought out. Like I stated its been on the trailer for 10 years no issues. And I have a rear view camera that lets me watch the bikes as well as the road. You can't just drill through the walls without knowing where things are. I do things once. The right way!
I wouldnt say its rednecky, rather well thought out. Like I stated its been on the trailer for 10 years no issues. And I have a rear view camera that lets me watch the bikes as well as the road. You can't just drill through the walls without knowing where things are. I do things once. The right way!
Hmm.. OK, don't like "rednecky", then perhaps
Frankensteinish?
Honestly, if I was in the used RV market and saw a trailer with big bolts sticking out of the walls that were never supposed to be there and were never part of the factory build I would be RUNNING as fast as I could away from that trailer.
While I applaud your creativity in trying to find a solution, I don't think it is one for everyone. Requires really finding a "stud" in that wall that is wide enough to accommodate the diameter of said bolt.. RV walls are made with 1x2s and actual size is 3/4 x 1 1/2 IF you are lucky..
That means a 1/4" inch bolt would give you only 1/4" on each side IF you were able to 100% accurately hit that stud in the direct middle AND the stud was straight and plumb AND you also drill it square and plumb..
A long shot at best..
Then you would have to use additional bracing on the inside of the wall like a small steel plate or a huge washer to spread out some of the force.. Failure to do that will result in snapping the wall stud like a twig when you hit a hard bump in the road or tighten the straps too tight (I HAVE hit bumps hard enough to RIP the bathroom mirror right off the wall in the rear of my trailer).
Personally, unless you are well versed with RV structures and or an structural engineer, folks REALLY should consider the non DIY approach rather than your DIY Eye bolt approach and buy the tongue mounted rack or hitch adapter..
It WILL be money well worth spent and you will not harm your trailer or other motorists!
Actually I do have a steel piece of angle iron on the inside bunk stud to distribute the load. And on the outside I have an aluminum plate that the eye bolt goes through. My design looks better than some stuff RV manuf design and put on a trailer. You would be hard pressed to tell if mine came that way or not. Either way, I don’t care if you approve of it or not. It works as I designed it too and it has been put to the test on many rough roads!
Gdetrailer wrote:
Personally, unless you are well versed with RV structures and or an structural engineer, folks REALLY should consider the non DIY approach rather than your DIY Eye bolt approach and buy the tongue mounted rack or hitch adapter..
Personally, unless you are well versed with RV structures and or an structural engineer, folks REALLY should consider the non DIY approach rather than your DIY Eye bolt approach and buy the tongue mounted rack or hitch adapter..
Eye bolts? I don't know about those but you certainly do not need P.E. after your name LOL. Wanna haul a couple of full coolers, bikes, a tote tank, whatever? And that is a 14 gauge 4X4 tube in these pictures.
The last picture of the Roo is mostly stock other than adding some 2X2 angle gussets and a 3X3 piece of 1/4" plate each side at the bumper mounting. It usually has two full RTIC 65 coolers on the platform.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/a1qIayOl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/Jdq9JXXl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/zYgG8lIl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/zx4cl3kl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/Zr68hnWl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/334J18Jl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/rTaFbZjl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/PEKlXDql.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/rMQlfAVl.jpg)
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/K0DkH0Al.jpg)
Lynnmor wrote:
Some may think that the frame is some kind of mighty structure and only those things attached need to be improved. Here is a photo of what might happen several feet in front of the load even though only a spare tire was carried on the bumper: Bent frame
Some may think that the frame is some kind of mighty structure and only those things attached need to be improved. Here is a photo of what might happen several feet in front of the load even though only a spare tire was carried on the bumper: Bent frame
So a bumper mounted spare tire caused the frame in your picture to buckle? Or did you use the word "might" literally? Lots of things might happen. If a spare tire on a bumper is going to bend up your frame, just imagine what whacking a 4" inch deep pothole at 70 mph is going to do to it? It might rip the entire rig in half. Imagine what jack knifing into a site while scrubbing the tires might do to it? It might twist it into a pretzel.
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
* This post was edited 04/25/18 04:55pm by Ralph Cramden *
Ralph Cramden wrote:
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
there are none so blind as those that will not see
blind
Ralph Cramden wrote:
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
What? From the guy who says Lippert builds their frames from recycled beer cans and gorilla tape?
drsteve wrote:
What? From the guy who says Lippert builds their frames from recycled beer cans and gorilla tape?
Ralph Cramden wrote:
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
Trailer bumper and frame fear mongering......thats entertainment.
What? From the guy who says Lippert builds their frames from recycled beer cans and gorilla tape?
You got it, and I stand by it. I am not about to crawl under my 2017 Rockwood to get pictures of what I did to reinforce its Lippert frame the first week we brought it home before it ever seen its first campground. The previous Keystone had a Lippert frame but I did not have to reinforce anything, Keystone chose to use an 8" high frame as opposed to 5-1/2" high frame that Rockwood uses, despite the Roo being longer and heavier.
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
Post pictures of a mod that can hold a bike rack and then some, and instantly you're now going to twist the trailer frame in half. Reinforce the main frame and now the A frame is going to bend. Reinforce the A frame and the drawbar will twist. Get a heavier drawbar and the hitch will rip from the tow vehicle. Reinforce the hitch and you'll bend the frame on the tow vehicle. All over a couple of 30 lb bikes and a 20 lb rack on the back of the trailer.
Someone must be passing out free memberships in the fraternal order of bumper police.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
Mine is based on personal experience. Darn near lost two bikes off the back of a class c when the thin-walled bumper started tearing itself from the supports. I'm not a welder, so I wasn't about to try to beef it up, so I relied on other methods to carry my bikes.
jfkmk wrote:
Mine is based on personal experience. Darn near lost two bikes off the back of a class c when the thin-walled bumper started tearing itself from the supports. I'm not a welder, so I wasn't about to try to beef it up, so I relied on other methods to carry my bikes.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
Mine is based on personal experience. Darn near lost two bikes off the back of a class c when the thin-walled bumper started tearing itself from the supports. I'm not a welder, so I wasn't about to try to beef it up, so I relied on other methods to carry my bikes.
Folks like Mr Cramden seem to feel that your and mine plus many others EXPERIENCES which have had issues with bumper mounted bicycles does not mean squat and that we made it up as part of a conspiracy..
I have fought and fought the battle trying to prevent others from making the same mistake and yet folks like Mr Cramden seem to have much more "credibility" towards the idea that it is perfectly safe..
Because of the uphill battle I have pretty much given up on trying to persuade folks to do the right thing and not bother with hauling bicycles on the RV bumper..
Folks, if you WANT to be stupid, then go ahead and be stupid, I cannot convince stupidity into being smart and making a better choice...
I leave you bike on bumper people to your own demise, hopefully I will never have to deal with your bad choice and stupidity when you do eventually lose those bikes.
Gdetrailer wrote:
I leave you bike on bumper people to your own demise, hopefully I will never have to deal with your bad choice and stupidity when you do eventually lose those bikes.
I leave you bike on bumper people to your own demise, hopefully I will never have to deal with your bad choice and stupidity when you do eventually lose those bikes.
Folks buy marginal tow vehicles and trailers and then want to hang junk anywhere from the front of a truck all the way to behind the rear of the trailer. In the past, I have suggested folding bikes, bed caps and custom racks. Never have any of these ideas been used because they want a certain important look or style even though the vehicles aren’t capable to do it right. You are correct, give it up and allow considerable distance from all trailers when on the highway.
Gdetrailer wrote:
Folks like Mr Cramden seem to feel that your and mine plus many others EXPERIENCES which have had issues with bumper mounted bicycles does not mean squat and that we made it up as part of a conspiracy..
I have fought and fought the battle trying to prevent others from making the same mistake and yet folks like Mr Cramden seem to have much more "credibility" towards the idea that it is perfectly safe..
Because of the uphill battle I have pretty much given up on trying to persuade folks to do the right thing and not bother with hauling bicycles on the RV bumper..
Folks, if you WANT to be stupid, then go ahead and be stupid, I cannot convince stupidity into being smart and making a better choice...
I leave you bike on bumper people to your own demise, hopefully I will never have to deal with your bad choice and stupidity when you do eventually lose those bikes.
jfkmk wrote:
Mine is based on personal experience. Darn near lost two bikes off the back of a class c when the thin-walled bumper started tearing itself from the supports. I'm not a welder, so I wasn't about to try to beef it up, so I relied on other methods to carry my bikes.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
A lot of posts about bumpers and bike racks are based on nothing more than repetitive internet forum hearsay, and the best are the ones that use the picture previously posted which has been posted over and over and over in bike rack bumper threads for 10 years.
Mine is based on personal experience. Darn near lost two bikes off the back of a class c when the thin-walled bumper started tearing itself from the supports. I'm not a welder, so I wasn't about to try to beef it up, so I relied on other methods to carry my bikes.
Folks like Mr Cramden seem to feel that your and mine plus many others EXPERIENCES which have had issues with bumper mounted bicycles does not mean squat and that we made it up as part of a conspiracy..
I have fought and fought the battle trying to prevent others from making the same mistake and yet folks like Mr Cramden seem to have much more "credibility" towards the idea that it is perfectly safe..
Because of the uphill battle I have pretty much given up on trying to persuade folks to do the right thing and not bother with hauling bicycles on the RV bumper..
Folks, if you WANT to be stupid, then go ahead and be stupid, I cannot convince stupidity into being smart and making a better choice...
I leave you bike on bumper people to your own demise, hopefully I will never have to deal with your bad choice and stupidity when you do eventually lose those bikes.
Nowhere did Mr Cramden say that just throwing a bike rack on any RV bumper without an evaluation of the mounting method would be a good idea. Some are fine the way they come from the factory, some, actually most, are not. But some people just don't get it. Any can be reinforced/modified to accept one. And as far as the remainder of the frame do you really think they do anything at all different between the rear end of the main rails and suspension attachment points to frames when they put rear mounted cargo racks on trailers as an OEM option. They don't. They just slide a tube in 2' to make the connection and some don't even go that far.
HEREis a simple solution, but then again your front tires may blow out or something if you install those safety strut brackets.
Stay far away from me when I am towing my trailer with bikes or coolers on the back, why risk a catastrophe? While doing so you may want to also look hard at all the other boneheads on the road around you and their driving habits and abilities. It may be best if you never leave your driveway, it's dangerous out there. Amazingly one can manage the construction of a 25 story building, but can not evaluate the connection and strength of an RV bumper.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
HEREis a simple solution, but then again your front tires may blow out or something if you install those safety strut brackets.
HEREis a simple solution, but then again your front tires may blow out or something if you install those safety strut brackets.
Interesting solution without requiring welding. That is the fail point on most bumpers. I'm intrigued. Thank you for sharing.
crazyro wrote:
Interesting solution without requiring welding. That is the fail point on most bumpers. I'm intrigued. Thank you for sharing.
Ralph Cramden wrote:
HEREis a simple solution, but then again your front tires may blow out or something if you install those safety strut brackets.
HEREis a simple solution, but then again your front tires may blow out or something if you install those safety strut brackets.
Interesting solution without requiring welding. That is the fail point on most bumpers. I'm intrigued. Thank you for sharing.
Those will reinforce the attachment area of the bumper, but only marginally help with the torsion in the middle of the tube.
For a receiver mounted bike rack, a thicker walled tube, or frame mounted would be best, along with dodge guy’s “redneck” eyebolts. I also put 4 large SS eyebolts on the back of a previous camper. Not redneck at all, but clever, I thought.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/8Ippmg3l.jpg)
Hasn't fallen off, twisted or broken the frame, or caused the Rapture.
So we just store them inside the trailer when we tow it. Just find a way to secure them or lay them down. Problem solved.
Bottom line: Some bumpers are built for loads.
GrandpaKip wrote:
My frame attached cargo carrier.
Hasn't fallen off, twisted or broken the frame, or caused the Rapture.
My frame attached cargo carrier.
Hasn't fallen off, twisted or broken the frame, or caused the Rapture.
With you and I on the road this summer Kip with **** attached to our bumpers, it just may be the summer of the apocalypse predicted long ago by the Aztecs......or was that the Apaches.......or the Amish? Lol.
If I have any concern at all its some doomoss rear ending me and taking out $400 worth of coolers or $2000 worth of bikes, and worse case the beer and ice. I like your reflectors. I purchased two vertical led tail/brake light bars to mount mid way up the rear wall but have yet to get off my lazy butt and install them for what good they may do. It's hard for idiots to see brake lights while yapping and typing away on phones.
* This post was edited 05/01/18 02:39am by Ralph Cramden *
David,Christy and our three sons
2005 Silverado 2500HD
2018 Kodiak 331BHSL