I'm retired & have a physical disability that affects my ability to walk a lot on uneven terrain. This issue will be improved dramatically because I've purchased a Segway-based wheelchair that goes almost anywhere able bodied people walk. It won't climb rocks but uneven ground, decent hiking trails and other types of terrain are no problem. It's being built in Greece and should be here by the end of this month. I have an electric lift in the back of my Flex so I should be able to load it easily.
I'm not looking for a "stealth" RV but want a non V-nose trailer so I can build an enclosed box/carrier for my new chair where the V would normally be. This is so I wouldn't need to unhitch the trailer every time I wanted to use my chair at WalMart, etc. I also want barn doors because I want a portion of the trailer to hold tools, supplies and some of my firearms. The RV will have a single Murphy bed that runs lengthwise which should allow for a desk / work area when the bed is folded. I'll need potable water/ grey water and possible black water tanks. I'm planning on using a remote controlled Maxxair vent because I can't lift my arms high enough to reach the knob, etc. I'm also looking at a small A/C unit, either a 12V/24V semi truck sleeper unit or a portable 120v unit that can be left in a cabinet & vented through the wall as needed.
To power this trailer I'm planning on using as many high-wattage solar panels with associated batteries, inverters & controllers.
Hopefully this gives you an idea of what I'm trying to achieve on a budget of around $10,000. Much of the work will be farmed out to my brother who's an excellent builder/finish carpenter and I'll be able to help with some of it. An alternative is to purchase a unit that's already converted but so far I haven't found any forums or sites that have them for sale.
I've watched a butt-load-o-videos on YouTube about these conversions and while some are very well done (wiring/plumbing run neatly) too many of them look like an electrician's and plumber's nightmare. If you have any experience with this type of conversion I'd like to get your advice. Please don't respond with "buy a travel trailer" because what I've seen for $10,000 is either an old unit with who knows what problems or some cheaply built **** that won't hold together.
I live in Oregon, about 40 miles west of Portland so if you've converted a cargo trailer, are interested in helping build one or know anyone who has one for sale anywhere west of the Mississippi please contact me via PM.
Tammy & Mike
Ford F250 V10
2021 Gray Wolf
Gemini Catamaran 34'
Full Time spliting time between boat and RV
2021 Ram Limited, 3500, Crew Cab, 1075FTPD of Torque!, Max Tow, Long bed, 4 x 4, Dually,
2006 40' Landmark Mt. Rushmore
Good luck with your project and keep us informed on how it goes.
As a rule of thumb I would suggest shooting for using about 1/2 of a tow vehicles capability and maybe end up at 60 % or so. Do you have option code 53 G?
* This post was edited 12/15/17 07:12am by azrving *
I admire you for wanting to do this! However! IF you do go ahead and do this with a utility trailer ... PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep posting your progress on these forums! It sounds like an interesting project. I'd love to know how it comes out in the end.
Something like this is slightly longer at 18' but having everything already setup and installed and when you do pull into a campground, they won't challenge you if it's a legitimate RV.
If you limit yourself to around 1500# of cargo, you should be within weight ratings...or bump up to a larger tow vehicle.
Ford Towing Guide
2006 Silverado 1500HD Crew Cab 2WD 6.0L 3.73 8600 GVWR
2018 Coachmen Catalina Legacy Edition 223RBS
1991 Palomino Filly PUP
PDX1953 wrote:
I'm retired & have a physical disability that affects my ability to walk a lot on uneven terrain.
I'm planning on using a remote controlled Maxxair vent because I can't lift my arms high enough to reach the knob, etc.
I'm retired & have a physical disability that affects my ability to walk a lot on uneven terrain.
I'm planning on using a remote controlled Maxxair vent because I can't lift my arms high enough to reach the knob, etc.
Your ambition and tenacity are admirable but I have to wonder if given your physical limitations whether this RV idea is practical.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/huh.gif "huh")
Having your brother actually build it is one thing but using it will require a fair amount of physical ability. It seems you assume you do have this ability but telling us you can't lift your arms over your head would concern me.Quote:
To power this trailer I'm planning on using as many high-wattage solar panels with associated batteries, inverters & controllers.
Hopefully this gives you an idea of what I'm trying to achieve on a budget of around $10,000.
To power this trailer I'm planning on using as many high-wattage solar panels with associated batteries, inverters & controllers.
Hopefully this gives you an idea of what I'm trying to achieve on a budget of around $10,000.
If this budget also includes the capital cost of the trailer itself I just don't see how this is going to be achievable at all as the cost of your anticipated solar system alone would chew up an awful lot of that $10K.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/eek.gif "eek")
Sorry, but IMO your plans are unrealistic - your vehicle isn't really suitable for the task you have in mind, your budget is too little, and RVing of any kind requires a certain physical ability which you may be lacking. All that said, good luck with this, it should be interesting to follow.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
solar with batteries.. are costly and HEAVY...
you tow vehicle is VERY Limited.
best of luck with your many searches...
last year my friend Mike.. did just like your PLAN... he is fully able.. took months.. and trailer went way over price and weight...
and he has a 2015 Ford F 150.
and no bathroom ability.. just a washing sink...
DutchmenSport wrote:
It is possible to do anything with enough time, money, space, and resources. But in a real practical world, I think a smaller bumper pull toy hauler is a better solution for all the reasons stated above. A toy hauler can be modified with the electronics to assist with your physical limitations.
I admire you for wanting to do this! However! IF you do go ahead and do this with a utility trailer ... PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep posting your progress on these forums! It sounds like an interesting project. I'd love to know how it comes out in the end.
It is possible to do anything with enough time, money, space, and resources. But in a real practical world, I think a smaller bumper pull toy hauler is a better solution for all the reasons stated above. A toy hauler can be modified with the electronics to assist with your physical limitations.
I admire you for wanting to do this! However! IF you do go ahead and do this with a utility trailer ... PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep posting your progress on these forums! It sounds like an interesting project. I'd love to know how it comes out in the end.
I just spoke to the Oregon DMV (the nicest DMV people I've ever dealt with) and they allow a title change from a cargo trailer or commercial vehicle (U-Haul box truck, school bus, etc) to an RV title & plate if it's under 8.5' wide & has permanent sleeping & cooking facilities installed. They'll do a VIN check, make sure it has the bed & cooking requirements in place & for a very reasonable amount make it an RV. I gave them a hypothetical example on a converted 7'x14' cargo trailer & they said to change the title, do the VIN inspection and based on the length & two year registration it'd be under $275. They don't require any toilets, fresh/gray/black tanks or wiring. IMHO if you show up at an RV park with RV license plates they'd wouldn't have any real grounds for refusing to allow you accomodation.
Side note:
I moved back here in 12/2012 ago after living in CA from 6/1985 & then in CT from 7/1993 (work) & their DMVs are awful. The CA DMV was so bad when I filed a complaint against one of their employees I got a letter of apology from the State DMV Commissioner. I just called the OR DMV & the phone rang three times before it was answered by a human. In the rare case where I've been put on hold it's never been for more than 5 minutes. Can't say enough good things about these folks and if you go to a small town it's a quick in and out.
drsteve wrote:
The Flex is not a suitable TV for what you want to do, IMHO... Ford limits the frontal area to 35 sq ft, even with the Class III towing package. They're basically telling you that your Flex will pull a 4500 lb boat, but that much box trailer, with it's wind resistance, is going to be too much.
***Link Removed***
The Flex is not a suitable TV for what you want to do, IMHO... Ford limits the frontal area to 35 sq ft, even with the Class III towing package. They're basically telling you that your Flex will pull a 4500 lb boat, but that much box trailer, with it's wind resistance, is going to be too much.
***Link Removed***
Thanks for that towing guide. Since the car didn't come with the tow package I know it'll need to be retrofitted with a proper heavy duty hitch, trans cooler & I'd probably add air bags in the back. Depending on the trailer I'll either use electric brakes with a controller or surge brakes. I just can't tow in excess of 4800# and I should be able to convert / buy something that won't be on the hairy edge.
Thanks for all of your responses.
good luck
2017 SportTrek 271 VRB
2016 F150 Eco boost with max tow package
PDX 1953 wrote:
IMHO if you show up at an RV park with RV license plates they'd wouldn't have any real grounds for refusing to allow you accomodation.
IMHO if you show up at an RV park with RV license plates they'd wouldn't have any real grounds for refusing to allow you accomodation.
Depends. A federal, state, or county park, i.e. a public facility, you'll have no issues. A private RV park, OTOH, can do as they wish. Some do not allow school bus conversions, old beater RVs, or even tents. There, you might have a problem with a cargo trailer.
Years ago I saw such a conversion in a lakeside state forest campground frequented by dirt bikers. It was a dual axle cargo trailer with sleeping and cooking facilities, and fresh water onboard. They used a blue tote for gray water, with a cassette toilet. They had a portable outside shower stall with a propane powered on demand water heater, and a small gas powered pump that drew water from the lake. Very nice after a hard day on the trail.
If your Flex doesn't have the factory tow package, you'll need an engine oil cooler and trans cooler, plus wiring. You'll need a Class III hitch. The factory tow package may also include a HD alternator and larger battery.
The tow guide limits the tongue weight to 450 lb. A 4500 lb trailer will have about 600 lb of tongue weight.
The Flex is a FWD unibody vehicle. IMHO, if you get anywhere near 4500 lbs, it's not going to work worth beans. Too much tongue weight, too much trailer frontal area acting like a huge sail. Then there's payload. Look inside the driver's door for the yellow sticker that says something like "weight of passengers and cargo must not exceed xxxx pounds". Passengers + cargo in the Flex + tongue weight of the trailer + the weight of the WD hitch (about 100 lb usually) has to be less than xxxx.
Good luck.
azrving wrote:
7x14 is going to be a tandem axle so by the time it is built out it will be too heavy. Cargo trailers are usually not allowed in RV parks. If you tow anything at that vehicles max weight it's going to be a pita. I'd also think that a small toy hauler is your answer after upgrading to stout 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton truck. A lot of 16 ft TH also have wet bath so moving up to 20 ft or so would probably put you in dry bath models. I know you are planning on holding tanks but if you do use some other toilet system be aware that SOME blm areas require holding tanks or you are required to park within X distance of the outhouses.
As a rule of thumb I would suggest shooting for using about 1/2 of a tow vehicles capability and maybe end up at 60 % or so. Do you have option code 53 G?
7x14 is going to be a tandem axle so by the time it is built out it will be too heavy. Cargo trailers are usually not allowed in RV parks. If you tow anything at that vehicles max weight it's going to be a pita. I'd also think that a small toy hauler is your answer after upgrading to stout 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton truck. A lot of 16 ft TH also have wet bath so moving up to 20 ft or so would probably put you in dry bath models. I know you are planning on holding tanks but if you do use some other toilet system be aware that SOME blm areas require holding tanks or you are required to park within X distance of the outhouses.
As a rule of thumb I would suggest shooting for using about 1/2 of a tow vehicles capability and maybe end up at 60 % or so. Do you have option code 53 G?
cargo trailer will be heavier than you think. I have a 7x14 converted as a toy hauler. It has a 40 gallon grey tank w/o impacting ground clearance, fold down couch, fold down bed, AC, forced air heat, Full shower, hwh, sink, propane cooktop, plenty of cabinets, 20 gallon fresh tank inside, and a cassette toilet.
But it is over 4500lbs empty, near 5500 without any bikes or any cargo in it.
For years when not using it for bike hauling, DW and I used it for camping. NEVER EVER did a RV park or campground even bat an eye about using it.
Nor has BLM or FS ever said anything about the cassette potty vs. holding tank.
Now if I ever did it again, I'd start with a 8x16 trailer.
2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
2015.5 Denali 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison
2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!
PDX1953 wrote:
I just spoke to the Oregon DMV (the nicest DMV people I've ever dealt with) and they allow a title change from a cargo trailer or commercial vehicle (U-Haul box truck, school bus, etc) to an RV title & plate if it's under 8.5' wide & has permanent sleeping & cooking facilities installed. They'll do a VIN check, make sure it has the bed & cooking requirements in place & for a very reasonable amount make it an RV. I gave them a hypothetical example on a converted 7'x14' cargo trailer & they said to change the title, do the VIN inspection and based on the length & two year registration it'd be under $275. They don't require any toilets, fresh/gray/black tanks or wiring. IMHO if you show up at an RV park with RV license plates they'd wouldn't have any real grounds for refusing to allow you accomodation.
Side note:
I moved back here in 12/2012 ago after living in CA from 6/1985 & then in CT from 7/1993 (work) & their DMVs are awful. The CA DMV was so bad when I filed a complaint against one of their employees I got a letter of apology from the State DMV Commissioner. I just called the OR DMV & the phone rang three times before it was answered by a human. In the rare case where I've been put on hold it's never been for more than 5 minutes. Can't say enough good things about these folks and if you go to a small town it's a quick in and out.
DutchmenSport wrote:
It is possible to do anything with enough time, money, space, and resources. But in a real practical world, I think a smaller bumper pull toy hauler is a better solution for all the reasons stated above. A toy hauler can be modified with the electronics to assist with your physical limitations.
I admire you for wanting to do this! However! IF you do go ahead and do this with a utility trailer ... PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep posting your progress on these forums! It sounds like an interesting project. I'd love to know how it comes out in the end.
It is possible to do anything with enough time, money, space, and resources. But in a real practical world, I think a smaller bumper pull toy hauler is a better solution for all the reasons stated above. A toy hauler can be modified with the electronics to assist with your physical limitations.
I admire you for wanting to do this! However! IF you do go ahead and do this with a utility trailer ... PLEASE, PLEASE, PLEASE keep posting your progress on these forums! It sounds like an interesting project. I'd love to know how it comes out in the end.
I just spoke to the Oregon DMV (the nicest DMV people I've ever dealt with) and they allow a title change from a cargo trailer or commercial vehicle (U-Haul box truck, school bus, etc) to an RV title & plate if it's under 8.5' wide & has permanent sleeping & cooking facilities installed. They'll do a VIN check, make sure it has the bed & cooking requirements in place & for a very reasonable amount make it an RV. I gave them a hypothetical example on a converted 7'x14' cargo trailer & they said to change the title, do the VIN inspection and based on the length & two year registration it'd be under $275. They don't require any toilets, fresh/gray/black tanks or wiring. IMHO if you show up at an RV park with RV license plates they'd wouldn't have any real grounds for refusing to allow you accomodation.
Side note:
I moved back here in 12/2012 ago after living in CA from 6/1985 & then in CT from 7/1993 (work) & their DMVs are awful. The CA DMV was so bad when I filed a complaint against one of their employees I got a letter of apology from the State DMV Commissioner. I just called the OR DMV & the phone rang three times before it was answered by a human. In the rare case where I've been put on hold it's never been for more than 5 minutes. Can't say enough good things about these folks and if you go to a small town it's a quick in and out.
I live in oregon and I just kept my conversion (7x14) with utility plates. way less expensive, no title change, and never any camping issues.
![[image]](https://i.imgur.com/sf0JLVel.jpg)
fridge, microwave, gas furnace, AC, full shower, 40 gallon grey, 20 gallon fresh, porta potty, 6 gallon HWH, 2 burner suburban cooktop, sink, awning
bed and couch folded up can haul 3 dirt bikes.
ktmrfs wrote:
cargo trailer will be heavier than you think. I have a 7x14 converted as a toy hauler. It has a 40 gallon grey tank w/o impacting ground clearance, fold down couch, fold down bed, AC, forced air heat, Full shower, hwh, sink, propane cooktop, plenty of cabinets, 20 gallon fresh tank inside, and a cassette toilet.
But it is over 4500lbs empty, near 5500 without any bikes or any cargo in it.
For years when not using it for bike hauling, DW and I used it for camping. NEVER EVER did a RV park or campground even bat an eye about using it.
Nor has BLM or FS ever said anything about the cassette potty vs. holding tank.
Now if I ever did it again, I'd start with a 8x16 trailer.
azrving wrote:
7x14 is going to be a tandem axle so by the time it is built out it will be too heavy. Cargo trailers are usually not allowed in RV parks. If you tow anything at that vehicles max weight it's going to be a pita. I'd also think that a small toy hauler is your answer after upgrading to stout 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton truck. A lot of 16 ft TH also have wet bath so moving up to 20 ft or so would probably put you in dry bath models. I know you are planning on holding tanks but if you do use some other toilet system be aware that SOME blm areas require holding tanks or you are required to park within X distance of the outhouses.
As a rule of thumb I would suggest shooting for using about 1/2 of a tow vehicles capability and maybe end up at 60 % or so. Do you have option code 53 G?
7x14 is going to be a tandem axle so by the time it is built out it will be too heavy. Cargo trailers are usually not allowed in RV parks. If you tow anything at that vehicles max weight it's going to be a pita. I'd also think that a small toy hauler is your answer after upgrading to stout 1/2 ton or a 3/4 ton truck. A lot of 16 ft TH also have wet bath so moving up to 20 ft or so would probably put you in dry bath models. I know you are planning on holding tanks but if you do use some other toilet system be aware that SOME blm areas require holding tanks or you are required to park within X distance of the outhouses.
As a rule of thumb I would suggest shooting for using about 1/2 of a tow vehicles capability and maybe end up at 60 % or so. Do you have option code 53 G?
cargo trailer will be heavier than you think. I have a 7x14 converted as a toy hauler. It has a 40 gallon grey tank w/o impacting ground clearance, fold down couch, fold down bed, AC, forced air heat, Full shower, hwh, sink, propane cooktop, plenty of cabinets, 20 gallon fresh tank inside, and a cassette toilet.
But it is over 4500lbs empty, near 5500 without any bikes or any cargo in it.
For years when not using it for bike hauling, DW and I used it for camping. NEVER EVER did a RV park or campground even bat an eye about using it.
Nor has BLM or FS ever said anything about the cassette potty vs. holding tank.
Now if I ever did it again, I'd start with a 8x16 trailer.
Not being allowed in some RV parks is the parks discretion. It does happen and not only with cargo trailers but also buses, tiny houses, vans etc.
BLM says this about some areas.
Section 17. Self-Contained Vehicles
a. In Pilot Knob, Midland, Tamarisk,
and Hot Springs LTVAs, you may camp
only in self-contained camping units.
The La Posa, Imperial Dam, and Mule
Mountain LTVAs are restricted to self-
contained camping units, except within
500 feet of a vault or restroom.
b. Self-contained camping units must
have a permanent, affixed waste water
holding tank of 10-gallon minimum
capacity. The BLM does not consider
port-a-potty systems, systems that
utilize portable holding tanks, or
permanent holding tanks of less than
10-gallon capacity, to be self-contained.
* This post was edited 12/17/17 06:37am by azrving *
They are built locally to me here in Missouri and build a very good trailer. They build the entire trailer, frame and all!
2010 Cruiser CF30SK Patriot
2016 3500 Duramax
1950 Right Hand Seat GPS (she tells me where to go)
I stumbled across a YouTube video for a company in Mesa (Dunesport) & they'll build whatever you want. They built a 12' unit for an old fart like me & it had 3 individual 50 gallon tanks (water, grey & black) which is unusual for something that small. It was pretty well optioned & most likely out of my price range but it's a place to start.
RV America always needs units shuttled from all over the country to their Mesa, AZ refurb facility. My son lives in Sacramento so I can pick one up there on 1/11/18 & drop it off on 1/16/18 and it'd allow me to go to the RTR in Quartzite in January. My total cost for 5 days would be $210 plus gas & the first 1000 miles are free. The issue is the RV door - it's 22" wide & my new Segway based wheelchair is about 29" wide. I can walk on even, flat surface but any type of uneven terrain is a problem so I need the chair. If I remove the tires & fenders (5 minutes) it'll fit through the doorway but it'd require someone on each end to help me load/unload/reload it. Then there's the issue of getting from Mesa back to Sacramento but I can rent a minivan or SUV & use portable aluminum ramps to load the chair. So - I have some figgerin' to do in the meantime.
Keep those ideas coming folks!
For what it costs to put one together you can find a lot of used trailer for the same money or much less.
ppine wrote:
During the last recession a lot of consruction workers started modifying their utility trailers for trips away from home. Most are fairly primitive. Utility trailers are poorly insulated and have few windows. They are hard to heat and cool. They are close to the ground with little room underneath for tanks.
For what it costs to put one together you can find a lot of used trailer for the same money or much less.
During the last recession a lot of consruction workers started modifying their utility trailers for trips away from home. Most are fairly primitive. Utility trailers are poorly insulated and have few windows. They are hard to heat and cool. They are close to the ground with little room underneath for tanks.
For what it costs to put one together you can find a lot of used trailer for the same money or much less.
Since the recession is long gone and carpenters are in short supply I won't be able to find one there. There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
I know what I want, have a special need for a couple of items so unless I fall across a used 14' - 16' travel trailer in excellent condition I'll probably build something. I got a quote from a cargo trailer company to build a 7x14 & it didn't even have a number of thing I'd spec'd. Price was $17000 w/o any ability to frame mount tanks under the floor. They won't get any of my money.
PDX1953 wrote:
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
Just be aware that as soon as you install 120 volt electrical, propane for cooking or heating or city water plumbing you get into legal issues and may well be refused a place to park it.
More and more people are getting fussy about certifications these days.
I had the same idea at one time.
after owning many older trailers and campers, I finally got tired of the leaks and constant repairs of the components and such in "pre-built" units, AND, I wanted room to haul my atvs also.
so I bought a new 24ft interstate cargo "car" trailer with the specific intent to convert i into a comfortable camping trailer, with the ability to haul 2 quads in...
I succeeded and have gotten many compliments on it.
I built a queen murphy bed and a bulkhead for an enclosed potty area forward with an electric flush portpotti.
it has installed shelving throughout and a mounted microwave oven
for heat, I installed a newport-dickensen marine diesel stove. it keeps the interior temps at 68-70 degrees down to about 17degrees outside (been tested).
it has an insulated roof and floor and is wired for 110vac and 12vdc with an installed charger.
it also has a custom built stainless steel roof deck for hauling a small boat and has an installed roof pod for extra storage.
its warm, dry and extremely low maintenance.... and it is for sale...
the down side to it, it sets too low for tanks to be installed below,
so its conversion capabilities are limited without some expensive modifications or special self contained deck mounted components.
as comfortable and roomy as it is for an "outdoorsmans" camp trailer, with nearly as much space as a 32ft toyhauler, it comes at some expense because its not loaded down with a sink, hot water heater, plumbing, built in furnace or air conditioner, all of which take double flooring or roofing for duct work.
neither does it have a couch or easy chairs, dinette or installed stove or propane system.
we use folding camp tables and chairs that can be stowed when we have the quads loaded and traveling
it is more set up to live cheaply and simply "off the grid", with a small honda genset for charging the batteries and running the microwave oven when necessary.
at one time I planned to mount solar panels to the roof, but I found I didnt need them...
and as life will sometimes lead us in another direction, it has led me in a direction where I no longer use this trailer.
I agree that a manufactured toy hauler would be your best option, but only because it has all that you want, and all the work has been done.... its ready to live in. and it will cost more to do a conversion than it does to buy a nice ready-to-live-in used unit.
the "toy hauler" recommendation only because it has an open floor plan and would allow you to move around easier... and on summer days, its nice to open the back door and enjoy the outdoors for awhile.
the only downside (in my opinion) to a manufactured unit is, there is always the worry of eventual roof or window leaks and the costly repairs of the damage caused by them, and the cost of component repairs, such as troubleshooting and electronic control boards
everything is a trade off...
2007 M-3705 SLC weekend warrior, 5th wheel
2014 Ram 3500 CC/LB, 6.7 Cummins
2004 Polaris Sportsman 700
2005 Polaris Sportsman 500 HO
1979 Bayliner 2556 FB Convertible Cruiser
Heavy Equipment Repair & Specialty Welding...
JaxDad wrote:
Just be aware that as soon as you install 120 volt electrical, propane for cooking or heating or city water plumbing you get into legal issues and may well be refused a place to park it.
More and more people are getting fussy about certifications these days.
PDX1953 wrote:
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
Just be aware that as soon as you install 120 volt electrical, propane for cooking or heating or city water plumbing you get into legal issues and may well be refused a place to park it.
More and more people are getting fussy about certifications these days.
I notice you're In Canada (unless that's Ontario CA) and I know in my area we wouldn't have any issues. I'm not in a HOA & even have a long shared driveway where I could store it. My Neighbor stores his travel trailer (probably 25') next his house & behind a fence. I'd put mine in a local storage facility or if it'd be a lot less expensive somewhere I could drive to in 6 - 8 hours. I might be able to store it at my friends place - he has 160 acres in the middle of nowhere & nobody gets on his property unnoticed.
I fueled up in Sacramento & from there to Mesa averaged 22.5 mpg (2wd, non EB engine) and that included climbing Tehachapi Pass and driving 70+ most of the way. I left Dunesport during rush hour & my first stop was in Surprize, AZ, 40 miles away. My mpg had dropped to 12 mpg but the worst was the climb from Vegas to Tonopah - 200 miles & a 2000' climb. That was 6.2 mpg so I knew the Flex wasn't cut out for it. I found a one-owner 2wd 2005 F-150 XLT extended cab with a 6.5' bed an 59,035 miles on it. It had been maintained faithfully and for some reason the transmission had been completely rebuilt with all HD parts 1400 miles (9 months before I bought it) from the late owner's estate. I paid $10,000, had to spend $1000 on new tires & I had a new audio/nav system installed. I sold the Flex quickly on CL without any issues and the f-150 was what I needed all along. Now my towing anxieties are over.
Vehicles like the Flex are designed as people movers, not for towing.
Unibody, front wheel drive and high gear ratios are all negatives for towing.
* This post was edited 05/19/18 08:12pm by bikendan *
Dan- Firefighter, Retired">, Shawn- Musician/Entrepreneur">, Zoe- Faithful Golden Retriever(RIP">), 2014 Ford F150 3.5 EcoboostMax Tow pkg, 2016 PrimeTime TracerAIR 255 w/4pt Equalizer and 5 Mtn. bikes and 2 Road bikes
ktmrfs wrote:
here is a picture of my 7x14 cargo sport converted to TT/toyhauler
fridge, microwave, gas furnace, AC, full shower, 40 gallon grey, 20 gallon fresh, porta potty, 6 gallon HWH, 2 burner suburban cooktop, sink, awning
bed and couch folded up can haul 3 dirt bikes.
here is a picture of my 7x14 cargo sport converted to TT/toyhauler
fridge, microwave, gas furnace, AC, full shower, 40 gallon grey, 20 gallon fresh, porta potty, 6 gallon HWH, 2 burner suburban cooktop, sink, awning
bed and couch folded up can haul 3 dirt bikes.
Nice conversion. What did you pull it with?
Full-Timed for 16 Years
.... Back in S&B Again
Traveled 8 yr in a 40' 2004 Newmar Dutch Star Motorhome
& 8 yr in a 33' Travel Supreme 5th Wheel
PDX1953 wrote:
I notice you're In Canada (unless that's Ontario CA) and I know in my area we wouldn't have any issues. I'm not in a HOA & even have a long shared driveway where I could store it. My Neighbor stores his travel trailer (probably 25') next his house & behind a fence. I'd put mine in a local storage facility or if it'd be a lot less expensive somewhere I could drive to in 6 - 8 hours. I might be able to store it at my friends place - he has 160 acres in the middle of nowhere & nobody gets on his property unnoticed.
JaxDad wrote:
Just be aware that as soon as you install 120 volt electrical, propane for cooking or heating or city water plumbing you get into legal issues and may well be refused a place to park it.
More and more people are getting fussy about certifications these days.
PDX1953 wrote:
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
There area lot of very active retirees with high quality woodworking, plumbing and electrical experience so I'll try to find one locally. If not there are cargo trailer companies who have preconfigured packages available.
Just be aware that as soon as you install 120 volt electrical, propane for cooking or heating or city water plumbing you get into legal issues and may well be refused a place to park it.
More and more people are getting fussy about certifications these days.
I notice you're In Canada (unless that's Ontario CA) and I know in my area we wouldn't have any issues. I'm not in a HOA & even have a long shared driveway where I could store it. My Neighbor stores his travel trailer (probably 25') next his house & behind a fence. I'd put mine in a local storage facility or if it'd be a lot less expensive somewhere I could drive to in 6 - 8 hours. I might be able to store it at my friends place - he has 160 acres in the middle of nowhere & nobody gets on his property unnoticed.
Sorry, I didn’t see your reply until now.
You misunderstood me, I didn’t mean “park” as in where you keep it. I meant where you park it to camp in it.
Anybody can convert a cargo trailer into a camper or toy hauler / camper, but that doesn’t mean it’s necessarily legal.
Unless it’s certified as to propane, 120 volt power and plumbing, you might just have a problem into c/g’s, private or public.