![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/hsl30lXl.jpg)
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/W4avpm1l.jpg)
Edit: Not sure why I can't post links to images and why embedded pics won't display here :/
Moderator edit to fix picture links.
To post a photo on the forums,
Click here.
To use it you:
1. Upload your picture to the app.
2. Copy/paste the resulting URL into a post. Do not make ANY changes to the URl. Don't add anything and don't take anything out.
3. You are done. The photo will appear and be properly sized for use here on our forums.
Take a look at my post announcing the app here. That should help you out a bit
Barney
* This post was edited 08/08/17 04:04pm by an administrator/moderator *
Just make sure everything is as clean as you can get it.
The less you plan the more options you have.
Currently with a 26' Forest River Class "C"
Ex Navy Diver
Ex Archaeologist
Ex Museologist
Actively retired
It's called Plasti Mend and the web site explains it. I just posted one example of the different size kits. Getting everything very clean and not having water weeping into the repair area is important.
rbrand wrote:
You can probably do a repair with epoxy & fiberglass cloth. Do not use fiberglass matte with epoxy.
Just make sure everything is as clean as you can get it.
You can probably do a repair with epoxy & fiberglass cloth. Do not use fiberglass matte with epoxy.
Just make sure everything is as clean as you can get it.
Thanks.. Good to know.
rjxj wrote:
You have to use abs to repair it. Youtube has videos of people making mixtures of abs shavings and glue to make a paste. I bought a kit on line which came with some cloth and the proper mixture of abs paste. The tank I repaired was only cracked around the fitting but it worked well.
It's called ***Link Removed*** and the web site explains it. I just posted one example of the different size kits. Getting everything very clean and not having water weeping into the repair area is important.
You have to use abs to repair it. Youtube has videos of people making mixtures of abs shavings and glue to make a paste. I bought a kit on line which came with some cloth and the proper mixture of abs paste. The tank I repaired was only cracked around the fitting but it worked well.
It's called ***Link Removed*** and the web site explains it. I just posted one example of the different size kits. Getting everything very clean and not having water weeping into the repair area is important.
Thanks for the info and link. I'll check it out.
![[emoticon]](http://www.coastresorts.com/sharedcontent/cfb/images/smile.gif "smile")
texnwar wrote:
Thanks for the info and link. I'll check it out.
rjxj wrote:
You have to use abs to repair it. Youtube has videos of people making mixtures of abs shavings and glue to make a paste. I bought a kit on line which came with some cloth and the proper mixture of abs paste. The tank I repaired was only cracked around the fitting but it worked well.
It's called ***Link Removed*** and the web site explains it. I just posted one example of the different size kits. Getting everything very clean and not having water weeping into the repair area is important.
You have to use abs to repair it. Youtube has videos of people making mixtures of abs shavings and glue to make a paste. I bought a kit on line which came with some cloth and the proper mixture of abs paste. The tank I repaired was only cracked around the fitting but it worked well.
It's called ***Link Removed*** and the web site explains it. I just posted one example of the different size kits. Getting everything very clean and not having water weeping into the repair area is important.
Thanks for the info and link. I'll check it out.
You're welcome. The other thing that I addressed when repairing the tank was the mounting of the drain pipe. It's an RV of course so it was half A and loose. I cut the longer extension pipe in half and added a radiator hose to take the stress off of the tank connection. Each set up is different but this one benefited from letting the drain fitting be fastened to the frame real well yet not be rigid at the tank.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!
2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
ScottG wrote:
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
The tank is plastic after all, not fiberglass like I first thought. From what I understand after doing some research, ABS or any other cement for that matter may not work. It's suggested to weld the cracks via polyethylene rods.
texnwar wrote:
The tank is plastic after all, not fiberglass like I first thought. From what I understand after doing some research, ABS or any other cement for that matter may not work. It's suggested to weld the cracks via polyethylene rods.
ScottG wrote:
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
The tank is plastic after all, not fiberglass like I first thought. From what I understand after doing some research, ABS or any other cement for that matter may not work. It's suggested to weld the cracks via polyethylene rods.
I don't know who you are talking to, but I would bet like Scott said that tank is ABS which is technically a plastic and the best repair is actual ABS cement which generally you have to get from a decent plumbing supply store. Many FW and all waste tanks that I'm aware of in RVs are ABS and while many of the universal "plastic" type plumbing cements will work O.K. on holding together ABS slip type fittings for the strongest repair I recommend real ABS cement. Big box stores won't carry it except via special order. True ABS cement has actual ABS material dissolved in it and the bonding is solvent based so proper repairs are nearly as strong as the original.
Here is what the OATEY ABS cement looks like:
![[image]](http://www.homedepot.com/catalog/productImages/1000/bd/bd76ab98-1abf-40a8-b518-8250a0dd0aa1_1000.jpg)
For a repair like you are looking at I would first after thoroughly cleaning everything cement the two parts together with real ABS cement and once that is somewhat cured I would build up the tank to pipe interface area with multiple coats of a mixture of the real ABS cement and ABS shavings which you can make by filing or making multiple cuts on a sacrifical ABS section of pipe or fitting and mixing the ABS filings with the cement to make a thick paste just before applying it to the repair . This will strengthen the overall pipe to tank junction since once cured that ABS/shavings mixture is basically just ABS material itself and by extending that mix up further onto the pipe and tank you will increase the bonded area of the repair. It might take up to a week for a 1/4 inch thick layer of ABS/shavings mix to totally cure since the curing is by solvent evaporation which can be a slow process so putting on 3 or 4 coats could take up to about a month for a really good repair and that is not something any repair place or mobile tech will recommend or do because of time.
Larry
2001 standard box 7.3L E-350 PSD Van with 4.10 rear and 2007 Holiday Rambler Aluma-Lite 8306S Been RV'ing since 1974.
RAINKAP INSTALL////ETERNABOND INSTALL
The Plasti-mend method might be the way to go but will it work over old ABS cement? If you can remove the old cement where you need to down to clean ABS, re-attach the old fitting with cement and then patch the missing/damaged portion with the Plasti-mend patch kit?
The original tank wall will flex somewhat when full and if travelling with contents in it. If putting a patch piece over it, iIt might be a good idea to avoid sharp corners and make the patch piece as rounded as possible to reduce stress points.
There's a number of RV holding tank manufacturers online that have fittings and info. There are some youtube vids showing how to do tank repairs that may or may not help much.
It would be nice to see some photos after the repair.
FWIW, are the tank sensors not installed at the recommended elevations? Looks as if there isn't much change in elevation between them. Not uncommon.
* This post was edited 08/09/17 11:54am by myredracer *
'03 F-250 4x4 CC
'71 Starcraft Wanderstar -- The Cowboy/Hilton
It most likely has other problems not evident right now.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/2nDc7sml.jpg)
* This post was edited 08/10/17 07:12pm by an administrator/moderator *
2016 Dynamax Force HD Super C
texnwar wrote:
The tank is plastic after all, not fiberglass like I first thought. From what I understand after doing some research, ABS or any other cement for that matter may not work. It's suggested to weld the cracks via polyethylene rods.
ScottG wrote:
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
That is ABS. Dont use anything except good old ABS cement.
Clean everything well and use the cement. Unless there's some piece missing you dont need to add any material - that will just make the job harder.
Hold in place for 30 seconds after cementing and your done.
It will last forever if done right but if you use some other "glue", it will eventually fail.
The tank is plastic after all, not fiberglass like I first thought. From what I understand after doing some research, ABS or any other cement for that matter may not work. It's suggested to weld the cracks via polyethylene rods.
Don't get the tank and the pipes confused. You are correct that if the TANK is cracked or broken it needs to be welded back together by someone who knows how to use the polyethylene rods and has the proper equipment. What you are showing to be broken is the ABS pipes that are attached to, but separate from, the poly tank.
If you can follow that pipe back to where it connects to the tank it may just be held to the tank with a clamp or 2 and you could repair the entire run like new.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?