We're in the process of purchasing at Cirrus 820 but would like to made a modification so we can connect the pass through window to the back window of the truck. Has anyone tried this - there must be some sort of a gasket system you can set up. The goal is for us to be able to get from the TC to the truck in case of emergency.
Thanks so much for your help.
'10 Ford F-450, 6.4, 4.30, 4x4, 14,500 GVWR, '06 Host Rainer 950 DS, Torklift Talon tiedowns, Glow Steps, and Fastguns. Bilstein 4600s, Firestone Bags, Toyo M655 Gs, Curt front hitch, Energy Suspension bump stops.
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But I can see this would wear the paint on at least the truck. so you need do weigh the reasons. I know I personally would not fit through the window on my Arctic fox even if my truck DID have a opening rear window.
2022 Ford F150
Sold: 2016 Arctic Fox 990, 2018 Ram 3500, 2011 Open Range
Sold Forest River Forester 2401R Mercedes Benz. when campsites went from $90 to $190 per night.
Generally speaking what you are trying to accomplish is not practical, even for emergency use. It will be a custom one-off solution for your particular combination of vehicle. You would need to find a local customizer to do the job unless you feel capable of doing the work yourself.
On the camper side it would require complete removal of that front window and enlargement of that hole, if there is even open wall space there to do that. It would also require removal and modification of the back glass of the truck to provide a bigger hole.
I do know that years ago you could get an inflatable "donut" that sealed that area between the camper and the truck. I think it was in the JC Whitney catalog. Haven't seen one for sale in many years.
Honestly, if you are THAT paranoid about being "attacked" in the night and having to make a quick escape by diving through the pass-through into the cab of the truck, you're in the wrong business, camp in the wrong places, or should re-think camping altogether.
Putting 10-ply tires on half ton trucks since aught-four.
https://denver.craigslist.org/rvs/6083171574.html
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2007 Adventurer 85WS
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1999 Dodge Ram 2500 QC LB Cummins
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If you see me camped someplace stop and say hi, I've always got an extra ice cold beer.
You will need a "donut" or boot to form a good seal between the truck and camper. We have a specially made vinyl covered foam filled boot. We got it from our dealer who I believe got it from Northstar. I saw it listed on the Northstar webpages.
We've run out in the house, but the RV has two.
Damon Challenger.
Jeep Unlimited toad
Dan
2008 Chevy D/A 2500HD ECSB
2010 Northstar 8.5 Adventurer
In my case I need at least 20x20" size to fit around camper window.
I look at the links and even those things are not cheap for what they are, don't see good pictures or description. Seem most of them work up to 3", while the 4" accordion cost $150.
What is it lately that special order items are promoted without good description?
I have the same problem lately shopping around for evaporative cooler.
The $1500 model is promoted with the same generic single picture the $700 model does and description is very sketchy.
Would love to see those pictures DWeikert
Is yours 4" thick?
* This post was edited 06/12/17 09:17am by Kayteg1 *
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Kayteg1 wrote:
Would love to see those pictures DWeikert
Is yours 4" thick?
Would love to see those pictures DWeikert
Is yours 4" thick?
Here ya go.
![[image]](http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/dweikert/Boot wide_zps4fmhnvyt.jpg)
![[image]](http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/dweikert/Boot tall_zpssyqqdgco.jpg)
It's 5" at the base and gets thicker from there.
![[image]](http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e22/dweikert/Boot thick_zpsug09jocu.jpg)
Northstar does still list-
Foam Front Window Boot $115.00
I only hope it's the same item.
I have pretty even 4" gap and some left-over Styrofoam.
Will see how that will hold.
They can keep the window, I'll take any one of the gals camping with me... They can cook....lol
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB
I did get some abrasion on the paint on the back of the truck however. None on the camper. pretty hard to keep that surface free of dirt.
My new TC has a window but I don't use it except for additional breeze, it's screened.
The window in my Arctic Fox is so small, only a very skinny could could fit through, and that wouldn't even work because the windows does not line up with the truck slider, if my truck even had a rear slider.
2009 Silverado 3500HD Dually, D/A, CCLB 4x4 (bought new 8/30/09)
2018 Arctic Fox 992 with an Onan 2500i "quiet" model generator
Not sure what its called,it was in shiping crates to protect some electronics or tvs maybe?Its soft but stiff enough not to colapse when you hit or press it..
Glued it right on my TC wall,,since I built my camper myself I made sure the window is big enough to crawl thru..
deltabravo wrote:
.....if my truck even had a rear slider.
.....if my truck even had a rear slider.
I made sure I got a truck with a rear sliding window. If not it might be worth the cost to have one installed.
Bets_B wrote:
...The goal is for us to be able to get from the TC to the truck in case of emergency...
...The goal is for us to be able to get from the TC to the truck in case of emergency...
Pets, air exchange, tossing empties I can see, but not sure what kind of 'emergency' would necessitate crawling thru windows?
If we're 'camped' generally means slide is out, jacks are down, possibly on blocks, coffee pots on the stove, steps deployed and at minimum lawn chairs are outside.
Really, just curious as to the scenario you're anticipating.
01 Ford F250 4x4 DRW Diesel, 01 Elkhorn 9U
Our camper projects page
My 2017 Superduty has electric rear window that is about 12x12" so the Styrofoam fits between glass on truck side and window frame on camper side.
Meaning less worry about paint wear, even with the material it is not likely.
My only worry at this point is wind test, but I plan to put ratchet strap around the 4 pcs of styrofoam and with $0 material cost to date, what do I have to loose?
My only purpose of the seal is getting air exchange as pulling over for pit stop only to enter camper 130F interior is not my idea of relief.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/XEnSwLNl.jpg)
2001 Ford F350 LB Diesel 4x4 CrewCab Stick
2015 Wolf Creek 850 Thermal Pane Windows, Oven, Reinforced Anchor Bolts, 200w Solar, Torklift Tie Downs, Fastguns, Stableloads
Kayteg1 wrote:
I did play with Styrofoam toaday and it looks good so far.
I did play with Styrofoam toaday and it looks good so far.
I would think styrofoam would move on one surface or the other, and probably self destruct over a short time. I used urethane foam, like used in a cushion. I get a little compression on it when the camper goes on. In fact it is possible to put the thing in through the truck window after the fact, if you forget.
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Agreed though, you may want to re think your plan, without some serious modifications, a pass thru just does not seem practical. IMO you're looking for a solution to a problem that isn't there. If really worried about having to make a getaway from the camper then I offer 3 more practical solutions.
1. Find better places to camp than a bad neighborhood
2. Class B RV
3. Class C RV
But I'd still get the cirrus. It's a cool camper!
2016 Ram 2500, MotorOps.ca EFIlive tuned, 5” turbo back, 6" lift on 37s
2017 Heartland Torque T29 - Sold.
Couple of Arctic Fox TCs - Sold
Bets_B wrote:
We're in the process of purchasing at Cirrus 820... The goal is for us to be able to get from the TC to the truck in case of emergency.
We're in the process of purchasing at Cirrus 820... The goal is for us to be able to get from the TC to the truck in case of emergency.
http://cirrus.nucamprv.com/wp-content/up........017/03/2017-Truck-Camper-Manual-820-.pdf
See page 32. Your 820, like most TCs, has an emergency exit designed for the purpose. Don't think I'd want to be fighting my way though slider windows and donuts in an emergency.
'18 Bigfoot 1500
Torklifts and Fastguns
'17 F350 Powerstroke Supercab SRW LB 4X4
And again, my only goal is to recycle cold air from truck into the camper.
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/udSG7Bq.jpg )
![[image]](http://i.imgur.com/fQdPpcG.jpg )
Or kick the windo out. How many emergencies you going to have that require escaping to the truck under attack?
I don't think it was the wind pressure alone, but the movement between truck cabin and camper "walked" the Styrofoam out of alignment and it was taken by the wind just miles from home.
How crucial can be the passage proved yesterday, when we pull over to AZ site camp with no hookups and no shade.
My Generac would start, run AC for 10 minutes and die.
Entering the camper was like entering the oven, but I used sleeping bag to seal the space around the window, set the truck AC to max fan (Max AC run in close loop, so you don't want it) and with Fantastic fan in the rear of the camper pulling some air, I got nice breeze inside from the truck.
Now in Phoenix not only I am working on fixing darn Generac, but I am shopping around for motorcycle or other inner tube.
anutami wrote:
I have used a small truck tire inner tube for 5 years, no paint damage. I will get a few squeaks in 4wd low offroading, when the truck frame is trying to rip my camper apart.
I have used a small truck tire inner tube for 5 years, no paint damage. I will get a few squeaks in 4wd low offroading, when the truck frame is trying to rip my camper apart.
This worked well for me. I made a cover for it out of an old boat bimini boot, no wear on paint
11 Chevy 3500 long bed EXT CAB 6.6 4X4
2005 Host 8.6 Bachelor SS TC
97 BRYANT BOAT
ILLTravler wrote:
This worked well for me. I made a cover for it out of an old boat bimini boot, no wear on paint
anutami wrote:
I have used a small truck tire inner tube for 5 years, no paint damage. I will get a few squeaks in 4wd low offroading, when the truck frame is trying to rip my camper apart.
I have used a small truck tire inner tube for 5 years, no paint damage. I will get a few squeaks in 4wd low offroading, when the truck frame is trying to rip my camper apart.
This worked well for me. I made a cover for it out of an old boat bimini boot, no wear on paint
Thats not a bad idea actually. I may make a trip to TSC and grab one. It can do double duty as my pool float...it's smoking hot here.
The way you have it though, that valve stem could hurt you if you were 'crawling through'....lol
Articulation is for Jeeps, not F350's.
Had to remove the rear window on the truck and then snap the boot to the inside of the truck. This sealed well and was easy to go back and forth between the truck and camper.
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MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
HMS Beagle wrote:
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
But if I understand what your semi-rigid design does is hold to one side and rub against the other.
Even glass can take rubbing from foam, I don't like the idea of rubbing. That is why I think very soft foam, or inflatable is the way as they will flex without rubbing.
The main issue IMHO is that you have to attach corners forming the square and the swimming pool floats will be hard to do that.
http://www.northstarcampers.com/products/hardwall-truck-campers-liberty#Accessories
Accessories by letter, "H":
Foam Front Window Boot $115.00
Still too small to pass through as a person, IMO.
2014 Ford F350 XLT 6.2 SCLB + 2017 Northstar Arrow
Kayteg1 wrote:
But if I understand what your semi-rigid design does is hold to one side and rub against the other.
Even glass can take rubbing from foam, I don't like the idea of rubbing. That is why I think very soft foam, or inflatable is the way as they will flex without rubbing.
The main issue IMHO is that you have to attach corners forming the square and the swimming pool floats will be hard to do that.
HMS Beagle wrote:
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
But if I understand what your semi-rigid design does is hold to one side and rub against the other.
Even glass can take rubbing from foam, I don't like the idea of rubbing. That is why I think very soft foam, or inflatable is the way as they will flex without rubbing.
The main issue IMHO is that you have to attach corners forming the square and the swimming pool floats will be hard to do that.
Just a thought:
Most pool noodles have a hole through the center and come in diameters up to about 4 inches. I would take several cut to length and run a rope through them to form a rectangle. As the TC moves, the noodles should roll a bit.
If the rope/noodle won't stay in place with friction, then make a PVC pipe frame through the center of the noodles. You can also extend the pipe frame to anchor it to the bed and keep it in place.
Rick
04 GMC 1500 4X4X4
04 Sunlite SB
Kayteg1 wrote:
But if I understand what your semi-rigid design does is hold to one side and rub against the other.
Even glass can take rubbing from foam, I don't like the idea of rubbing. That is why I think very soft foam, or inflatable is the way as they will flex without rubbing.
The main issue IMHO is that you have to attach corners forming the square and the swimming pool floats will be hard to do that.
HMS Beagle wrote:
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
There's a lot of movement between camper and truck - at least on my rig. With a similar shape and thickness, but using urethane upholstery foam instead of styrofoam, I have not had the thing move much over thousands of miles. You can see the cab and camper move, and the foam takes up the movement. Get some 4" foam, it cuts pretty good with a bandsaw or an electric carving knife. You can glue it with Scotch 99 spray adhesive.
But if I understand what your semi-rigid design does is hold to one side and rub against the other.
Even glass can take rubbing from foam, I don't like the idea of rubbing. That is why I think very soft foam, or inflatable is the way as they will flex without rubbing.
The main issue IMHO is that you have to attach corners forming the square and the swimming pool floats will be hard to do that.
No - this is soft urethane foam. Each side stays stuck to that side and does not rub. The motion is taken up by flexibility in the foam. Polyethylene foam would be too rigid in my opinion, and styrofoam way too rigid. Basically I made what you can buy from Northstar, but without the vinyl covering, and to fit my window opening precisely.
With polyurethane upholstery foam, you can cut pieces and glue them together with spray contact adhesive. It would be more durable if covered with vinyl or some fabric, but mine has held up for several years now bare.
MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
probably not thick enough, with inner tube you can fill as needed
They have 3" inner tubes on the net, but the closest I could locate is 1200 miles away, but what you guys think?
Will 3" inner tube inflate to 5.5"?
Is it worth spending 20 bucks to try?
Kayteg1 wrote:
I went to Walmart today and the thickest bicycle tubes they stock are 2.25"
They have 3" inner tubes on the net, but the closest I could locate is 1200 miles away, but what you guys think?
Will 3" inner tube inflate to 5.5"?
Is it worth spending 20 bucks to try?
I went to Walmart today and the thickest bicycle tubes they stock are 2.25"
They have 3" inner tubes on the net, but the closest I could locate is 1200 miles away, but what you guys think?
Will 3" inner tube inflate to 5.5"?
Is it worth spending 20 bucks to try?
Don't you have Tractor Supply's in Nevada or ASC or any farm stores? They will all have truck inner tubes. I bought a tune for a 18"" diameter farm tire 7" wide. Works like a charm. I think it will eliminate some of the oscillation of the camper in the bed too. I paid 15 bucks, no tax (I have an ag exemption.
Thanks for the tip.
SidecarFlip wrote:
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
I tried it this weekend. It was down and dirty as a stationary device to deter the cats from sneaking between the camper and the truck window. My wife did not want to allow her cat to go through because she claws her way to get into/out of other areas and would most likely bust my hack job apart. I will try an inner tube or upholstery foam next time.
Ben
SidecarFlip wrote:
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
I tried it this weekend. It was down and dirty as a stationary device to deter the cats from sneaking between the camper and the truck window. My wife did not want to allow her cat to go through because she claws her way to get into/out of other areas and would most likely bust my hack job apart. I will try an inner tube or upholstery foam next time.
Ben
The biggest inner tube they had was 16" but looks good for the air exchange purpose.
They also have good selection of metric bolts, what I will need for my Generac.
Plan to put the camper back on truck this weekend, so will add a picture.
With 120F weather I sure hope the air from the truck will keep the camper below 100F so I don't get all sweat just by opening the door.
Kayteg1 wrote:
Took 15 miles trip to Tractor Supply today.
The biggest inner tube they had was 16" but looks good for the air exchange purpose.
They also have good selection of metric bolts, what I will need for my Generac.
Plan to put the camper back on truck this weekend, so will add a picture.
With 120F weather I sure hope the air from the truck will keep the camper below 100F so I don't get all sweat just by opening the door.
Took 15 miles trip to Tractor Supply today.
The biggest inner tube they had was 16" but looks good for the air exchange purpose.
They also have good selection of metric bolts, what I will need for my Generac.
Plan to put the camper back on truck this weekend, so will add a picture.
With 120F weather I sure hope the air from the truck will keep the camper below 100F so I don't get all sweat just by opening the door.
I got my truck inner tube at Auto Zone, I believe they have larger size ones than Tractor supply
MN Ben wrote:
I tried it this weekend. It was down and dirty as a stationary device to deter the cats from sneaking between the camper and the truck window. My wife did not want to allow her cat to go through because she claws her way to get into/out of other areas and would most likely bust my hack job apart. I will try an inner tube or upholstery foam next time.
Ben
SidecarFlip wrote:
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
I tried it this weekend. It was down and dirty as a stationary device to deter the cats from sneaking between the camper and the truck window. My wife did not want to allow her cat to go through because she claws her way to get into/out of other areas and would most likely bust my hack job apart. I will try an inner tube or upholstery foam next time.
Ben
I know about cats, my wife has a multitude of them and they all have claws...and they all like to 'climb' my leg. Wonderful thing.
My camper sits pretty close to my back sliding window anyway
SidecarFlip wrote:
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
MN Ben wrote:
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
Could you use one of those swimming pool noodle floaties?
I would say no, the vinyl is too thin, but worth a shot anyway, it's cheap.
I wonder if you could stack the noodles? For tying some foam body flies for fishing I use 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive to stack different colors of foam. Maybe use a little painters tape so the spray only coats a strip down one side of each noodle. Spray on then press together, give a few minutes to set and you have a double thickness noodle.
Just a thought...
The tube did leave small gaps around high bed light/camera housing, so I might have to work on it a bit more. Making the tube oval would be perfect, so maybe some strap will do the trick.
To top it, the camper slide covers almost 1/2 truck window opening, so forget about safety pass unless you can move the slide, but anyway, spend most of the day driving when morning temp were in 110's while coming to Las Vegas I had solid 118F for last 2 hr .
Set truck blower to mid-range speed and in the time the camper interior without truck air could reach 125-130F, the thermometer on countertop did show 102F.
So I am pretty sold on the idea.
Hopefully with better sealing, setting truck blower to max and camper rear Fantastic to low exhaust, I could get the camper down to comfortable temperatures even in extreme heat.
Now 1 hr after entering the house, starting with huge evaporative coolers and than switching to AC I managed to lower the interior to 96F.
Still 1 more hr of full sunshine, so I will head for cold shower.
* This post was edited 06/25/17 07:13pm by Kayteg1 *
Got to 95 here today, sweatin balls out ! If I were in your shoes I'd point that thing towards the nearest Mountian and not stop til I got there!
Stay safe......and cool!