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Date Posted |
Forum
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RE: long term storage using jack stands
I do this any time the 5th wheel will be stored for more than two months. It takes the weight off the tires and the springs. It really only takes 2 jack stands. Place them just behind the rear tires on the I-Beam frame.
Some might say this is unnecessary and they might be right. But it takes me less than an hour so why not do it?
I use two hydraulic jacks (also behind the rear wheels) to lift the frame - jack a little on the left, a little on the right, a little on the left, and so on. By doing this, you do not put any twisting torque on the frame since both sides are going up together. When you get it high enough to put the jack stands under both sides, lower the trailer onto the jack stands. The front legs are perfectly capable of holding up the front of the trailer (they do it all the time).
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alsimon96
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07/11/10 08:31am |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Cleaning Bug Stains
First of all, thanks to everyone who made suggestions. Let me tell you where I stand:
1. I tried Simple Green full strength - no luck.
2. I tried "Bug Bust" from CampingWorld - no luck.
3. I tried "clay bar" - no luck.
Finally, I tried some Meguires "Fine Scratch and Swirl Remover" that I had sitting around. It eliminated most stains. Some of the stains remain but are faint and can only be seen up close.
The real answer is put a good wax on the front cap. If I had done this, I am sure I would not have had these problems.
Tomorrow I will be going to O'Reillys Auto Parts and buy the best wax I can. It might take a little effort putting it on but nothing compared to the effort getting rid of the stains.
Thanks again for your help.
Allan
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alsimon96
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04/22/10 07:39pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Furnace issues.
How many times have you tried starting the furnace? I had similar trouble with my water heater and it took 10 tries before it finally started working. And everything else was working just like your rig. After it started, it has worked fine ever since.
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alsimon96
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04/21/10 10:17pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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Cleaning Bug Stains
I have a real problem. I cleaned the bugs off the front cap using techniques described on this forum. The bugs came off fairly easy.
My problem is the stains left behind. I tried Simple Green with no luck. I went to O'Reillys Auto Parts and bought the most expensive bug and tar remove. It did not touch the stains.
Does anyone on the forum know of a chemical that will remove the stains without damaging the front cap?
Thanks in advance for your help.
Allan
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alsimon96
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04/21/10 10:08pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Water pressure regulator
I use a "fixed pressure" regulator. With my first pressure regulator, I had low pressure in the RV (shower, sink, etc). So I bought another "fixed pressure" regulator and now things are great.
So there are two explanations for this:
1. First regulator was bad
2. First regulator was the 40 pound kind and the second was the 60 pound kind.
In any case the second regulator solved the problem.
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alsimon96
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03/09/10 06:29pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Electric / Propane
We are currently at an RV Park in Texas for three months. When you are in camp that long you have time on your hands. So every morning I check the Electric Meter reading and record it in a spread sheet.
At this campground they charge $0.17 per KW and I pay $20 for a 30 lb tank of propane.
When the refrigerator is on electric, it consistently adds 5 KW ($0.85) each day. That will be over $25 per month (more than the cost of a tank of propane).
So my decision is to use propane for refrigerator, hot water, and furnace. I can't say for sure but it sure looks to me that propane is cheaper.
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alsimon96
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03/01/10 06:52pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Hot Water Heater Problem
I recently had some problems with my Atwood Water Heater. In the process of fixing the problem, I discovered the following:
1. If you turn on gas only, it will attempt to light 3 times and if it does not stay lit on the third try, the warning light will come on.
2. If you have gas and electric on and the gas fails to light, the warning light will not come on. So if you are trying to use gas, don't turn electric on because you will never get the warning light.
3. If it fails to stay lit after three tries, don't give up. Turn the gas off and back on. It will then try three more times. It takes a while for the propane to make it through the pipes to the heater. I have sometimes had to repeat the process four times before it would stay lit.
Good Luck.
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alsimon96
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01/30/10 12:30pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater Control Panel
After making the post on 1/17/10, the problem came back. I talked with customer service at Atwood (they were very helpful and patient even though my unit was long out of warranty). They were not surprised with the conditions that I was reporting.
Here is apparently what was happening - the water was getting TOO HOT creating a cutoff condition. This meant that the warning light came on with either electric or gas.
Customer service said it could be either the thermostat or the control module. Price for thermostat (less than $15), price for control module (over $125).
So I went ahead and changed the thermostat and everything has been working fine for a full week.
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alsimon96
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01/28/10 10:10am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater Control Panel
My hot water heater has started working normal (as described in the posts above).
I don't know why it was acting so goofy. I am reasonably sure it was not operator error. I am fairly savvy on stuff like this. And it has been working properly for several years. And all the switches, modes, indicators, etc. that were described above worked as advertised.
Then all of a sudden last night, the indicator light would come on for either switch. Also, the gas would not light. When I went to bed, I turned the gas switch to OFF and the electric switch to ON. The indicator light was also on. This morning we had hot water. So that means the electric heater was working even though the light was on.
The only possible explanation is we had very heavy rains for several days. Perhaps high humidity had something to do with it. I opened the water heater panel (on the outside) but everything looked just fine.
Anyhow, thanks for your suggestions. For sure it gave me the confidence that I more or less knew what I thought I knew.
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alsimon96
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01/17/10 12:30am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Atwood Water Heater Control Panel
Well the problem with my water heater may be worse than I thought in my first post.
Now, when I put the electric on or when I put the LP on, the red light comes on immediately. I hope my description is clear.
When I throw the electric switch, the red light comes on immediately. It goes off when I turn the electric off.
Also, when I throw the LP switch, the light comes on immediately. It goes off when I turn the LP off.
At this point, I'm not sure if it is heating the water. I will know tomorrow morning. Can anyone help me?
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alsimon96
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01/16/10 12:24am |
Tech Issues
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Atwood Water Heater Control Panel
I have an Atwood Water Heater with both LP and Electric heating. I have the standard control panel with two switches and a red light between the switches. Until a few days ago, the red light worked normally. In other words, if I tried to use LP and the heater failed to light after three tries, then the red light would come on.
Now the red light is coming on for a different situation and I don't understand why. I am operating with electric only. As far as we know, the water is being heated properly. At least we have not noticed lack of hot water.
In any case, several times the light has come on while heating only with electric. If I turn the electric off and then back on, the light goes out.
Can anybody explain why the light would be coming on when only using electric heat? What does it mean?
Thanks for your help.
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alsimon96
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01/15/10 11:45pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Deluxe Tire Chock Warning
The landing gear will keep the trailer from moving but you put significant stress on the landing gear when you back into the pin. I always have my roto-chocks solidly in place before hitching up. No way am I taking a chance of bending the landing gear.
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alsimon96
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08/28/09 07:30am |
Fifth-Wheels
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